Tuesday 10 April 2012

Discovering Lesotho, the Kingdom in the Sky

In South Africa, the Easter break is taken very seriously, so seriously that both the Friday (Good Friday) and the Monday are public holidays … this means 4 days to go and discover the country !
With my colleague and friend Nurur, we had planned to go to Swaziland, but for administrative reasons (visa) it turned out to be impossible on such a short notice, so we decided to go to Lesotho. The trip was really planned on Tuesday and Wednesday, and on Friday we were on the road with Nurur's car, with our passports, two hotel reservations, a tent and sleeping bags "just in case", some water and fruits.

Day 1 : Johannesburg to Maseru

Departure time, 8:00am (or so). We decided to leave on Friday morning for two reasons : 1) to avoid the huge traffic anticipated for the Easter break, and 2) to avoid arriving in Maseru by night - one never knows the quality of the roads !
So, from Joburg, going to Lesotho is easy and has several ways. We took the N3 south (direction Durban), until Harrismith, where we had a short break.







Then, heading west to Bethlehem (founded by very religious people …), and then south again to Fouriesburg.






Close to Fouriesburg is the border post of Caledoonspoort, to enter Lesotho. We passed without any problem, and we could arrive quickly to the town of Butha-Buthe in Lesotho.
Needless to say that the change is dramatic between South Africa (even in a very rural area like this part of Free State) and Lesotho. It suddenly seems like one jumped in another dimension.




Butha-Buthe is a somehow busy town - the main town of the north of the country, with its minibuses driving on top of each-other, people crossing the road everywhere, etc. Hardly 10m into road to Masery (A1) we bumped into police control - they just wanted to check the driver's license and car registration. Then, we headed south, towards Maseru. The A1 road is one of the main roads of the country, but it still has quite a lot of potholes ! But already then, the landscapes were beautiful, and we could pass close to villages.





In the middle of the afternoon, we arrived in Maseru, the capital of the country. We had a room booked in the "Scenery guest-house", located behind the stadium. Nice view, nice beds - just a little far from the center, as we had to take a taxi.



The taxi took us to "the mall", which seems to be the center of activity of the (upper-class) town. From there, we walked to Kingsway, the main road crossing the city.

Maseru by night

Alliance Francaise (also French consulate and German consulate !)

Full moon rising


On Kingsway, we could find a cafe (Times Cafe) where we had a drink and a dinner (some braaied meat, yumm !). At the beginning, the bar was quite empty, but it got very busy at some point ! And we were lucky to have a table from the beginning, as they were all taken by 7:30pm. So much that at some point, some people came to us and asked if they could share our table, which we accepted of course. They were 3 guys, two from Maseru and their friend from Joburg who had come to visit them. Followed a quite crazy conversation with these guys, who were already a bit drunk. What we understood from the Joburg guy is that the other two, one is "obsessed with women" and the other is "obsessed with booze". So, it was a funny moment. Many other people were then coming to say hi to them, and so we shook a lot of hands that night ! As far as I am concerned, I think it was the first time I was the only "white" person in a crowded place like that, and it's a … particular feeling ! But everybody was very friendly with us - we spent a great evening there.

We then left and had quite a difficult time to find a taxi to take us back, but finally we found one and were back at the guest-house. We went straight to sleep - it was hardly 9:30pm … :-)


Day 2 : Maseru, Thaba-Bosiu, Morija, Malealea

For day 2, the plan was to do some visits in the Maseru area and then head to the guest-house where we had booked for Saturday and Sunday nights, located in the village of Malealea, south of Maseru.
So we started the day by a good breakfast at the guest-house, and then we left ! In the day, Maseru is a bit more busy than on the night of Good-Friday, but still not too much !


Cathedral


Direction Thaba-Bosiu, via the Main South Road. We passed interesting places, like this "restaurant":




Then we left the main road to a secondary road for a few kilometers.





We arrived in Thaba-Bosiu, which means the Mountain of the Night, where the first Basotho king, Moshoeshoe I, founder of the Basotho nation, built a fortress. It is also the place where the Basotho kings are buried. There are some legends on the origin of the name. One of them is that the king arrived there at night ; another part of the legend talks about magical herbs used to defend the fortress when enemies were trying to approach by night. In any case, it is apparently the most important historical site of Lesotho : it contains the house of Moshoeshoe I, as well as its grave, many other graves and ruins of the fortress. And it has stunning views.


View from the way up



Top of the hill, the plateau where the fortress was built

Some graves

Mountain views

The house of Moshoeshoe I







The graveyard was the most interesting part, I think. There were some strange (and a bit scary) graves:


Grave


We also saw some people praying on the grave of Moshoeshoe I.




The place is very peaceful.



After Thaba-Bosiu, we left towards Morija, a village south of Maseru where there is a museum and some dinosaur footprints.
We arrived at the museum and asked to see the dinosaur footprints, but they had no-one to take us there. So they advised us to ask the guest-house. The owner is actually a French lady who found us a guide (a kid of the village, named Teboho), who took us to the footprints.

Dam

Dam

Dinosaur footprints !

Dinosaur footprints !

View from the rock with footprints


Then he took us to some Bushmen paintings that he said he found himself (and they are actually under some rock below a road, not too easy to access, so, why not ?).

Bushmen paintings

Bushmen paintings


And finally, he took us to the King Palace, which is not very far. The King was not there, so after talking with a guard, we could walk a little bit closer to the house and see it (but no pictures). The house is actually quite modest and surprisingly open. I think it tells a lot about the people.
After these visit, we drove Tebhoho back to the village.

One word about Theboho
He is in grade 12 (which means the last year of high-school, I think), and wants to be a mechanical engineer. He seems very bright and motivated, and I can't see why he would not reach his goal. He was quite happy when he learned that we both work at the university of Johannesburg, where he would like to do his studies. He gave us his contact address - a post-office box and the phone number of his sister, as of course, in Lesotho, not everyone has a mobile phone, not everyone has an email address … He asked us to send him an old mobile phone or some books in english so he can practice.

One of the amazing discoveries in Morija was that finally, Lesotho is not different from any country in the world these days : we asked where they usually buy groceries and stuff like that, and the answer was "to the shop owned by chinese people, it's cheaper" ! We were quite amazed …

We left Morija and continued our route towards the village of Malealea.






For the last 7 kilometers, the road became a gravel/sand/stones/holes road.




At some point, we reach the "Gates of Paradise" pass (2001 meters)

Gates of paradise




We arrived at the Malealea lodge in the middle of the afternoon. After checking in, we went for a quick walk in the village, found a shop and a bar where we had a beer. The owner of the bar (Sebastian) was very friendly and we talked quite a lot with him. But we were starving after that long day, so we went back to the lodge, with a promise to come back later.

A word about the Malealea lodge
I am not quite sure of the history - I'd need to check in the Lonely Planet (or whatever). But I understood that the lodge became the center of activity of the village, as it attracts the tourists : craft shops, guides, etc. Apparently, the incomes of the lodges are partly invested in the development of the village : building schools, clinic, etc. It is a nice place, people are rather friendly. On the minus side, the lodge is completely fenced, and most people don't really go out, except for their hikes with a guide. So, even though the lodge certainly brings something to the village, it is also cut from it. It was for example a bit shocking to see all the "potential" guides (the kids of the village) waiting at the gate : whenever a group of tourists wants to go for a hike, the people from the lodge would call one guide, who would enter the lodge and take the tourists on their tour.
Another aspect of the lodge, is that you can basically choose between all kinds of accommodation, going from the "normal" camping, to the all en-suite bedrooms. It can fit everyone's needs !
Also, there was a lot of French tourists, but I hid my accent … ;-)


Day 3 : Waterfall hike, village tour
On Sunday, we went for some hikes around the village of Malealea. In the morning, we hired a guide, Joseph, to take us to the Botsoela waterfalls - it's a 4-hour hike. He explained us some things about Basotho life and the area, and needless to say that the landscapes were amazing. Here are some pictures.

Our guide Joseph, at the start of the hike









Botsoela waterfall


A kid who was guiding some other tourists to the waterfall

Local kids watching us from the top of the canyon
Waterfall from the top
 
Meditating ...




After a quick lunch, we went for a tour in the village with another guide (I forgot his name). He took us to a few places, including a local "Basotho beer brewery", and the chief's house.

Brewery

The chief's house


Note that in Lesotho, the concept of "la cabane au fond du jardin" is a reality …

La cabane au fond du jardin


A word about land and funerals in Lesotho
Our guides explained us two interesting concepts in Lesotho rural life. The first is that all the village land belongs to the chief. If you want to build a house and plant something, you ask the permission to the chief, who will give you a piece of land. If there is a conflict, the chief will be the judge. The chief is also the person responsible for everyone in the village, which means that if you are walking to another village and you are late, you can spend the night in the chief's house (of course you have to ask him/her), and leave early in the morning. We could not meet the chief of Malealea unfortunately. We understood that a woman cannot be chief, except in the case of a widow, which is the case currently in Malealea.
The second thing was about funerals. When someone dies, he/she is taken to the funeral office (usually quite far !) until the next Saturday, as funerals are done only on Saturdays. They slaughter a sheep and a cow, and there are some ceremonies and rituals involved - note that a (christian) pastor is also involved ! Another fun fact was about twins, who are considered as only one person. When the first twin dies, he does not get the ceremony, he is buried quickly in the morning. Only when the second dies, they do the whole ceremony.

A word about the bar

The concept of bar in a Lesotho village is quite interesting. There are actually a lot of them, especially compared to the number of people in the village. A bar is simply a room from a house (where no-one lives), with a small counter, some huge loudspeakers, and a few chairs. The music inside is extremely loud, and we guessed that this is to attract people, to make them know you're open. The customers are usually young people, some of them seem to come directly from the field after a day looking after cows or sheep. They just drink (quite a lot) and dance. Some of them came to us and chatted a bit with us, as not so many people from the lodge went out to the local bars (there was a  bar in the lodge, but really, nothing to do !).
We spent some time in the bar on Saturday night, and it was very lively, lots of people, really nice. On Sunday, it was much more quiet ...
The bar is mostly the center of activity of the village, along with the local shop, where you can buy everything, from food to clothes, to ... water. Because there is no "running" water in the village, people come and buy water from a big tank in the shop.


Day 4 : Malealea to Maseru, Maseru to Johannesburg
On Monday, we left early from Malealea towards Maseru, where we wanted to stop a little bit (to buy some craft stuff, eat something, maybe use internet). We took a last picture of the area from the Gates of Paradise pass.



We arrived in Maseru within about 2 hours. Some pictures of Maseru:

The future new parliament

Soldiers in the streets of Maseru, close to the mall


A word about police and army in Lesotho
Lesotho is a very peaceful place, we never felt threatened or anything - but OK, coming from Joburg … :-) However, and maybe it is linked, we did see a lot of police and army forces. Controls on the road are very frequent, I think we had maybe 6 of them in 3 days, which is a lot given the fact that they don't have so many roads ! We also saw a lot of soldiers, and policemen, in the streets of Maseru. So, maybe this is the price of stability ...


Digression …
I think it was the first time I was passing a border by land : the border between France and Switzerland, which I used a LOT of times, does not really count as they never control anything, and otherwise I use plane. So, in that case, the last impression of a country, and the first impression of the next country, are often things happening in an airport. Here, it was different.
On the way to Lesotho, the last impression of South Africa (not counting the border officer) was a large guesthouse with a nice view on the mountains. My first image of Lesotho was two guys walking from the border, arms around each other's shoulders, in a very friendly and "supportive" way. Leaving Lesotho, the last image is quite strange. During our stay, we have seen the house of a chief of village, and also the house of the King of Lesotho. Both quite modest in their own styles - even the King's house, very open and simple. But by "chance", on the road just before the boarder, we saw a HUGE house, with a Chinese-style roof, and South-African-style walls and fences around. I am not sure whether it belongs to the Chinese ambassador, or a businessman, but it stroke me that  this house was bigger and better protected than the King's house. After the Lesotho control at the border, in the no-mans-land, the image that I will always remember is the queue of Lesotho workers going back to South Africa. They were thousands, forming a long queue (probably a kilometer !), waiting under the sun. For us, passing the border took 2 hours (traffic, queue, passport control, etc.). For them, probably the whole day, and then it's not over, they have to catch a bus to the place where they work (Ladybrand ? Bloemfontein ?). And after the SA border, a few kilometers, and the first image back in South Africa is a soldier pointing his rifle at a car (which quite stupidly made a U-turn when they saw the military control !). A few hundreds meters after, there was a military/police/custom control, where the car was searched (but not too thoroughly). Apparently manpower from Lesotho are welcome in South Africa, but they should not forget to have done all the paperwork …

Maseru bridge border post

Of course, this sounds sad, but overall, what I will remember from Lesotho is the friendliness of the people and the wonderful landscapes. And I will go back there !

On the way back, we took a secondary road until N1, and it was a really, really bad road ! But still beautiful landscapes ... almost desert ! Only fields, no house ... It's quite impressive !

Free State

A very straight road !

Sunflowers

Potholes ... or, actually, just a very bad road !


The last word of this post to thank Nurur, who drove all along, and to his car, which I think passed successfully the Lesotho test drive !

On the road